The Wonders of Nairobi… Part 1.

The Gauntlett’s home is in the suburb of Karen, south-west of the city centre. Named after Karen Blixen, of “Out of Africa” fame, this suburb is a much sought after area to live in, and is characterized by leafy lanes and large properties. It lies at the foot of the Ngong Hills, and over the years the original farm has been split into many smaller properties, but Karen Blixen’s original house has been restored and is a national monument. It is just around the corner from the Gauntlett’s and within easy walking distance. The workshop that Karen Blixen used is today a Coffee Shop and Restaurant. I was not able to visit her original home this time round, but am determined to check it out on my return to Nairobi after I have been to Rwanda and Burundi…

On Saturday morning, we went to the Karen Country Club for breakfast. While Roger and 7 year old Abby decided to cycle there, Angela, Gemma, Pippa and I decided to use a much more civilized mode of travel, and piled into the Land Rover… The club has every amenity that you could wish for, and membership here cannot be easy to come by… The clubhouse, tennis and squash  courts, pool and spa, are set on an 18 hole golf course whose fairways and greens looked to be in superb condition after the good rains that had fallen over the past few months…

Maximum Respect for The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust...

If you go down to the woods today, you're in for a BIG surprise...

It's a race to get to the milk... Handler won by a short head...

Angela had very kindly offered to take Pippa and I on a sight-seeing tour of the area, while Roger went off to play club cricket in town. Our first stop was at the Elephant Orphanage, established by David Sheldrick, and internationally acclaimed conservationist, who was the first warden of the giant Tsavo East National Park, which lies between Mombasa and Nairobi.

David’s wife Daphne began hand rearing orphaned elephant calves in the 1970’s, and to date more than 60 orphaned calves have been returned to the wild through the dedication of elephant handlers which she trained…

Four litres of milk into one elephant goes very quickly...

I watched spell bound as the first small herd of young elephant were led to a rope-ofF area to be fed their bottles of milk formula, specially imported from the U.K. … I have spent many hours close to wild elephant and have had a few scary moments with a few of them as well, but despite this, I was still awed by these amazing animals, and the sight of them being fed by their handlers…

This, the smallest ellie, had to have his "blanky" with him at all times, and screamed blue murder whenever it fell off...

Each handler is assigned an orphan when it is brought to the sanctuary, and forms a very strong bond with the animal. The elephants are taken for walks in the neighbouring Nairobi National Park, during the day, and are housed in their own individual stables at night. Each handler sleeps in the stall with “his” elephant, which he covers with a large blanket before “putting it to bed”…

Daphne Sheldrick was also the first person to successfully raise a Black Rhino calf in the 1960’s and through her efforts, over a dozen Black Rhino calves have been successfully released back into the wild. It is probably safe to say that the Sheldrick’s  are responsible for saving this species from extinction in Kenya… At present, there are three Black Rhino calves being cared for and prepared for later release, at the Elephant and Rhino Orphanage.

The rhinos are no longer brought out to be viewed by the public, as they tend to rush among the visitors, cracking shins and causing havoc… Their handlers have taken to wearing cricket pads to avoid injury…

This is how we scrum...

Playful Pachyderms...

The majority of orphaned elephants and rhinos are here as a result of their parents being poached, or having been abandoned when they have fallen into wells dug by villagers out in the bush. Many of Kenya’s National Parks are not fenced, and it is therefore inevitable that they should come into conflict with humans in one way or another…

There are two groups of elephant orphans at the shelter, each comprising of about ten animals. Each group has a dominant individual or “matriarch” who takes charge of the younger calves… These “matriarchs” are the first to be released back into the wild, and make way for other “strong-willed” orphans to take their place. After polishing off their bottles, they roll around in the mud, and are splashed with water by their handlers…

Little fella gets pushed around...

Washday, as always, is a bit of a mission...

The large crowd that gathers to watch this every day was as entranced as I was… The elephants are in touching distance, and often, after a bit of pushing and shoving, end up amongst the onlookers… They are also as inquisitive as any youngster can be, and will walk over to the ropes to sniff at members of the crowd, who are then able to stroke their rough hides…

I could feel that “idiot grin” plastered on my face….. You know…..the one you get when you look around you and can’t believe what you are witnessing… Wherever I looked, jaws hung open in wonder, people were shaking their heads from side to side, caught in a moment they would probably never forget…  An elderly lady close to me had tears in her eyes as she watched a pair of younger elephants try and clamber over a larger one who was rolling in the sand…

All together now... "Sweeeeeeet...!!!!"...

If you are ever in Nairobi, get yourself to the David Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage between 11.00am and noon, on any day of the week, and see the amazing interaction between these elephant and their handlers…

You will not regret the time you spend with them…

© GBWT 2010